The home base of Climb Catalunya is the tiny village of Abella de la Conca. Nestled on the side of a beautiful canyon the Abella Eco-Refugi is perfectly located to explore the superb and varied climbing sectors of the Catalan pre-Pyrenees. The surroundings boast routes to suit all tastes: more than a 1000 single pitch sports routes (from continental grade F4 to F9a); over 500 multi-pitch routes spanning all ranges of ability; and scores of big wall challenges up to half a kilometre high for specialists in traditional and aid techniques. Add to this the refreshingly mild and sunny climate of the startlingly beautiful Montsec (Dry Mountains) and you have the recipe for the perfect climbing trip.
To make the most of this spectacular region Climb Catalunya runs special holidays and long weekend breaks based around the main gorges of Vilanova de Meia, Terradets and Collegats (with optional day-excursions to the other nearby sectors) through winter, spring and autumn.So, with all this on offer, why not check out our dates and book yourself some sunshine and the chance to explore some of Europe's highest quality but least crowded rock?
Vilanova de Meia
Vilanova de Meia is probably the most popular gorge in the area due to the huge variety of climbing it offers and to its unquestionably idyllic setting. Here beautiful views and routes for all abilities are to be found together.
The centre piece of the gorge is without doubt the Roca dels Arcs which has over 50 routes of about 200 metres in length scaling its imposing and sheer grey and orange south facing walls. Choose from equipped and semi-equipped routes from 4+ to 7b to A5.
Other large faces include the Roca Alta and the Paret de Zarathustra, the Parets de Pas Nou and the Pilar de Segre. These faces offer every imaginable climbing challenge from easy multi-pitch routes up vertical and impeccable limestone, to athletic trad outings over strenuous overhangs, to dark caves and imposing pillars.
For less experienced climbers the buttress of Roca dels Arcs and the Gran Slab offer interesting, well bolted and less severely inclined 1 and 2 pitch routes.
As if all this is not enough Vilanova is dotted with sports sectors offering over 200 sports routes. Take on delicate slabs or brutal juggy overhangs depending on your mood while exploring every corner of this beautiful gorge.
The Terradets gorge with its towering 500 metre faces inspires awe and yet provides superb routes for climbers of all levels. Characterized by thin horizontal breaks and a slightly off vertical inclination it favours thoughtful and balancy climbing, always demanding good footwork, strong fingers and a clear head.
The main wall, the Paret de les Bagasses, has over 50 equipped and semi-equipped routes ranging in length from 100 to 500 metres and spanning all the grades from 5 to 7a+. The intrepid and energetic are recommended to take on the 21 pitches of the CADE, the original and now emblematic route up the face, which involves easy climbing but a never less than epic journey. For those who like less well trodden routes the Peladet, opposite the main face, provides classic outings, both free and aid, over fantastic rock.
Roca Regina, a face of equal size and grandeur to Bagasses and only a stones throw away, is heaven for specialists in big wall and aid climbing offering over 20 routes of approximately 500 metres ranging in grade from 6a/A1 to A5. Used as a training ground by those heading to Yosemite this face should not be taken lightly. High level climbers may want to force some of the routes in free.
For those who would rather stick to sports climbing there are other alternatives. Single pitch sports climbing fanatics will want to head for Els Isards, a crenellated limestone crag, which has about 25 fingery routes of the highest quality from 6a up to 8b+.
And last, but by no means least, comes Les Bruixes a sector the shape of an overhanging bowl (currently very fashionable with the top international climbers) which offers about forty 30 metre routes up perfect tufas. Only for those with massive forearms.
Mont Roig, Sant Llorenc and Camarasa
The combined sectors of Mont Roig, Sant Llorenc and Camarasa provide an impressive variety of rock and stunning scenery in just a few square kilometres (not to mention an excellent bakery).
The dark perforated dolomitic rock of the central gorge at Camarasa offers spectacular 'pocket' climbing on the lower faces and snaking cracks up big needles (ideal for trad enthusiasts) a little higher up. The rock is oriented in all directions allowing us to choose between sun and shade according to the season. In winter the Crestes de Conill, precariously leaning thin flakes of slab, soak up all the sun while in summer La Calaeta, a tree-shaded bay of rock on the river's edge, guarantees us cool conditions and the chance of a swim.
Sant Llorenc, situated over a tranquil lake, is split in two: to the west is El Cilindre, a glowing orange curve of conglomerate rock reminiscent of the Mallos de Riglos, while to the east is the Paret de l'Os, a towering limestone crag characterised by granite-like mountain features. Both offer wonderful multi-pitch routes of radically different styles. For those finding their feet on multi-pitch routes La Formiguera wall offers secure, user-friendly routes on good rock. More confident parties will want to take on the magnificent trio of routes up the perfect grey limestone of the Remacha Spur. While rock-gods will want to head for the deep cave known as 'the Eye' to climb alongside 'Life Sentence' [Cadena Perpetua], the first 8c+ put up in the area.
Mont Roig, a raised up band of red limestone, dominates the skyline. If we are lucky we will experience the thrill of climbing in the early morning above a sea of mist stretching out across the plain far below. We can choose from equipped classics on the Pala Alta, more committing trad routes up the Paret dels Sostres and l'Extrem, or a selection of sports climbs around the Mare de Deu hermitage.
The variety of rock in the area is extraordinary. The Collegats gorge offers exhilarating climbing on conglomerate rock. It is well worth a visit during the week. Choose from 50 superbly equipped and pumpy routes on irregular shaped and unpredictable holds. Visit Sector Gramuntill and Roca Bonatti and take your pick of thirty equally engrossing 2-pitch routes. Move on to Zona de la Figuereta if you are interested in dramatic routes winding up through chimneys and weird rock formations. Then, if you dare, Tyrolean across the thundering river and take on the demanding routes of Devil's Rock. If you still have energy investigate the Zona de Casilla and cherry-pick from the impressive array of classic multi-pitch routes (up to 400 metres in length) that dominate the central gorge.
Abella de la Conca
If you prefer the texture of perfect limestone and the challenge of super-technical and physically demanding single or multi-pitch routes then Abella, an isolated and peaceful canyon well off the beaten track has everything you need. The area now has over 300 sports routes and around 20 semi-equipped and trad routes of all grades for you to enjoy – just a stone’s throw from our base the Abella Eco-Refugi.
Our holidays are not instruction courses and you need to be an independent climber able to top rope and belay safely and have your own climbing insurance to participate. However, if you want to polish your skills or learn something new during these weeks why not add in a day of bolt on instruction?